Thursday, April 29, 2010

The Black Sea is a great place for a swim.

I did it. I swam in the Black Sea. And when I use the verb "swam", I really mean it in a way that means "exited as quickly as possible."

I spent the previous weekend in a southern Ukranian town on the shore of the Black Sea, called Odessa. The weather was warm, the reprieve from work welcomed, and the freedom limitless. The crew (those of us doing the gold in the temple) took a trip while our boss gave us 4 days off, waiting for materials from Utah to arrive for us to continue working. We took a night train friday night to Odessa for about 15 dollars. Entering the train felt like I was enlisting in the Soviet Army sometime between the first and second world wars. The lights flickered, carpet smelled of leather boots, the cabins were ancient, and even the curtains looked communist. I slept in a cabin with 2 other crew members and a BABUSHKA! Haha. I talked with her for a bit, but the language barrier prevailed. We slept in an oven for a room, because Europeans believe that any sort of draft blowing through a room will cause immediate illness and death (whereas we call it 'fresh air'). I woke up at 5:10am staring into the eyes of a train attendant ranting at me in irritated Ukranian. We had reached our stop and it was time to put my shoes on and give the nice man back the sheets.

The weekend was spent walking--a lot. We saw most of the town: the main streets, the Potempkin Steps (the famous scene in the film 'Battleship Potempkin'), the opera house, and of course--the shores of the black sea. I don't know if you are familiar with the Black Sea so I will fill you in on the details. It is a body of water with high salt concentration and a poor trash removal system. Oh yes, and lots of foam perusing the surface. I stood at the end of a cement pier with my shirt off and suit on, contemplating the odds of my getting out of this adventure without contracting some debilitating disease. The odds were good but on '3' a friend and I jumped in. As soon as I hit the water my main goal was to get out. I swam to the dock after about 10 seconds of struggling toward the shore. It was the coldest and saltiest experience of my life. It was like swimming in table salt. Table salt up the nose. Table salt in the eyes. Table salt in many other places. Unpleasant. But completely worth it. We walked down the beach like men, with women sheilding their children and men looking at us with the utmost respect. We will probably be the only ones to jump in that water for the next month or so.

Did I mention we went to the biggest market in Ukraine? I bought some odds and ends. Ties, shoes, and things. Ties for 2 dollars. Shoes for 6 dollars. We also met a guy on the train down to Odessa who said he had a friend with an apartment in the middle of the city. He offered us the place for 60 dollars over 3 days. It was perfect.

And the only thing that could have made the weekend superb? I was in Europe at a market selling cheap merchandise. Yes--you guessed:

I bought a new man-bag.


  1. I could relate to a few of those experiences. Ann and I took a night train from Moscow to St Petersburg and it was HOT and uncomfortable for a Williams used to gale force winds raging around a prone self. I really liked the trains with the sitting and sleeping compartments. I felt like I was in a movie! I wish you had posted a picture of the new man-bag. Now, I have to wait until June to see it draped around you. I also hope you saved the other for posterity! Keep enjoying Ukraine and just think people spend LOTS of $$$ at a spa for a salt treatment and you got your for free and admiration and respect to boot!!!

  2. BAH!! You bought a new man bag?! CONGRATS!!